Friday, February 29, 2008

ready for chapter 5?

back at one of the best internet cafes of the trip, here in punta arenas. we left our little home-away-from-home, erratic rock II hostel in puerto natales, at 7 a.m. (after enjoying our last bowls of frosted flakes there) and bussed back to punta arenas, the town perched at the straights of magellan.

kayaking amongst the glaciers was good fun, though sincerely over-priced for what we got. very expensive, not so much kayak time and of course, i had idealized visions of me paddling in a maze of icebergs, which was not to be. but it was cool...paddling next to a glacier in patagonia could never be less that pretty awesome.

now, i´m soaking in my last hours of patagonian wind-powered, rain-saturated fresh air. in the afternoon, we will go partake of the penguin colony nearby. very exciting. i´ve already been tickled by all of the birds i´ve spotted, including the black-necked swans, chilean flamingoes and andean condors, now i get to enjoy the little flightless bundles of joy.

i´ve got the most recent pics posted and hope to get los penguinos up before departing at the early hour of 5 tomorrow morning and making my long, long way up to ecuador...and thus, beginning chapter 5 of my south american adventure. so happy that my visit to the galapagos is next, because i can´t imagine very many destinations that could follow patagonia.

i have no idea what the internet world will be like up there, but when surrounded by the land of darwin´s creatures, who wants to be on one of those blasted computer machines??? i will update when i can though, and try to share the racy photos of me and the giant tortoises. i think the footage of me and the iguanas will be a little too graphic for this crowd, but if the people demand it, i can deliver.

let´s all raise a glass to the end of the world and, heck, let´s raise one more for evolution!!!

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

all about the elements

greetings once again from the little southern outpost known as puerto natales! i scripted a fabulous entry packed with amazing literary sensibility and titillating description and then the computer ate it. por lo eso, i had to retreat for a day, fatigued and slightly heartbroken, unable to re-concoct my thoughts for ya´ll. but i´m back, refreshed and ready to give a little picture of what it was to backpack through the torres del paine.

firstly, it would be impossible to capture the impact of this land simply with words. so, check out the photos and you can see what cannot be written.

the torres is a land of severe incongruities...the weather, the land, the people...we approached through the grassland desert with sun shining and brown grasses blowing gently. in the distance, you see the paine massif explode from the land and it is so immense and attractive that you are too caught up in awe to be befuddled about how and why these mountains landed in the middle of arid flatland.

they create their own weather, as all respectable mountains do, and the few peaks we could see coming in were encircled by grey clouds. the valleys were filled with shadows and snow.

the first views of every peak we came upon never ceased to be the best-moment-ever for me. i´m a sucker for craggy peaks, and these guys always took my breath away. just a simple change in the light or our proximity made them new and worthy of long gazes (and multiple shutter snaps - as is evident from what could be called exhaustive representation on my flicker page). but know that the photos don´t do these peaks justice. i could never quite put my finger on what was lacking in the photos, but every time i was depressed that the full majesty of the moment was never quite present in the pics.

so, you have the obvious awe. then you have the confusion.

confusion due to the fact that directly to your left could be a 5,000-ft. vertical wall of granite and slate with clinging glaciers and torrential glacial rivers wrapping around the base. and directly to your right is an endless vista of desert oranges, yellows and browns intermixed with the brightest turquoise lakes you ever did see.

sun and blue skies to your right. to your left, the angriest winds. the only ones that could carve a mountain majesty like this. they blow with a great white´s mouthful of teeth and with scary speed. typically from their source are the blackest clouds and the next storm waiting. there is always "a next storm".

i sat and watched the sky for an unknown amount of hours and i equate the weather to the tidal sets of the ocean. when you devote enough attention, the inherent rhythm reveals itself to you...and then you know exactly when the waves are going to come, how far apart they will be from each other and which will be the strongest. after watching one valley (and every valley had its own set of rules) i could see the storms lined up like airplanes. the wind would introduce them every time...with insane force and then there would be the snow and the rain.

then a little break...the best time to ascend a pass...a momentary view of peaks...and then the next one rolls on through.

even when it is sunny in patagonia, it´s raining. totally bizarre, but i guess it´s always raining somewhere here, so even if you´re in full sun, it´s so windy that you get rained on from the side or the back or some secret place that pitches rain.

and then...then there are the people. so many people. backpackers coming in high season, beware. they are not kidding. and nobody told me...not adequately enough...what the act of backpacking really resembles here. i thought my biggest enemy would be the weather, and while it provided some interesting challenges, i revise my earlier statement to say that the frickin´overpopulation of the park was my biggest enemy. such a tease to be in the most awe-inspiring lands i´ve walked in a long time...only to be surrounded by not what you would call your true outdoorsmen. no.

take yellowstone national park in the dead of summer, if you will. take every single one of those folks, but remove them from their RVs and road-trip vans and give them backpacks. but keep the jeans. and the cigarettes. lots of cigarettes. then drop them on the trail with me. trail etiquette is non-existent. i can count on one hand for 8 days of backpacking how many times i was thanked for letting teams and teams of people pass. i can also count on one hand how many times someone stopped for us. i cannot, however count on anything the amount of goddamn toilet paper i saw everywhere. when i find myself with that pile of disposable income i´m bound to have one of these days, i am getting educational signs made and i am donating them to this park. because, there actually is no magical forest fairy that picks up your toilet paper for you. and, despite popular belief, biodegradation is not a magic fairy either. i have this rage in the states as well, but here...here there is absolutely no attempt - no matter how feeble - to try and bury or hide the toilet paper. no, just dropped right there. on the trail? no problem. just drop it right there. scurried up to the most brilliant vista you´ve ever seen? yeah, drop it right there. lovely white squares everywhere. drop it there for the people. drop it for posterity.

the last of my people rant focuses on the sleeping part. yes. when they say "campground" a vision of a large plot of land with "camp sites" in it comes to mind. but here, they mean a swatch of land (differing in size depending where you´re at) where an unlimited number of people pitch their tents. it didn´t take us long to realize that we would not, for the entirety of our trip, be sleeping more than 5 inches from somebody else. make that 10 somebodies on every side. it was funny really. we caught on early to our curse, as well. somehow, we angered the torres gods because we were cursed with having the largest and loudest groups of hikers always pitch their tents on top of ours. and when i say loud...please understand that i cannot accurately describe the pitch and volume with which large groups of israelis and chileans feel the need to communicate with each other. it apparently doesn´t have anything to do with proximity...or, say, an obvious hearing impediment.

wrap them all up and this is the picture...

after an 8 mile climb to the top of a breath-taking granite outcropping you are being snowed on and blown over while the sun is shining about a mile away on the desert. you sit, careful to center yourself in between the two squares of toilet paper, to put on extra layers and enjoy some raisins while taking in the surrounding majesty. just then, the group of highly jocular chilean boys that encircled your tent the night before and stayed up until 3am take their last steps to the summit and light their cigarettes.

(don´t mean to sound too snarky, but people can be a real pain in the ass...most especially at the almost literal end of the world)

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

end of the world, anyone?

greetings from way down here in the wonderful world of patagonia. i don´t think i can explain to you the immensity of the terrain down here. the plane ride (which i captured on film and will post in 12 days or so) was jaw-dropping. i never removed my forehead (much to the dismay of the cleaning crew) from the window because the view was always different and dramatic. fields of volcanoes. crumpled mountain ranges. glaciers tumbling into valleys and massive lakes and rivers. huge rivers and wide open tundra. it´s all here. currently, i´m in the tundra part, right on the edge of the land of peaks, glaciers and fjords.

little puerto natales is a cute little city and i´m slightly enamored because it´s filled with my kind of tourists - adventure-seeking folks from all over the world. tomorrow, christine and i head into the Torres del Paine national park for 10 - 12 days of backpacking. we´ll return to puerto natales after that, unpack for a day and then embark on a two-day kayaking/camping trip in a fjord, amongst the glaciers. should be absolutely spectacular...if you don´t dwell on the ridiculous winds and rain they have here. perfect kayaking conditions. you can all comment on my arnold-sized biceps after this paddle.

the backpacking will be somewhat of a new experience for me because you must camp in campsites and there are refugios that have showers and some even with restaurants along the way, so i won´t have my ultimate wilderness experience that i usually strive for when backpacking. this spells disaster for my competitive side as the little european bastards, with their tiny backpacks, are going to fly right past us as we lumber along with our 10-days worth of food, tent, stove, and sleeping bags... but no copping out and taking shelter in refugios! we´re hard core. and we will love every single moment of hiking in the wind-driven rain and chilly temperatures. the mileage won´t be the main challenge here. it´s absolutely the weather conditions, which change instantly...they say...though since i got here, it hasn´t been anything but wind and rain :) maybe they mean it changes from wind to rain back to wind again...and then a little of both to make it interesting.

ok. off to enjoy night #1 of the banff film festival. nothing like some extreme-sporting movies to get you ready for the patagonian wilds!

back in a flash...

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

i spoke too soon

photos are up! get em while they´re hot!!!
on my defeated walk home, i found another internet cafe with actual USB capabilities! de-lux.
...and almost three hours later whitbob is still here. but i´m at 45% completion of the final batch and then i can be free to go home and sleep!

good airs

¡amigos! hola from this little spot they call buenos aires. it´s been a fine couple days settling in, but sadly my photos are held hostage. this might be the swankiest town this side o´ the equator, but hell if i can find a computer from later than 1990. i´ve captured my jaunts in uruguay as well as my little apartment, but alas, i cannot share them. i scour the big (and i´m not kidding when i say big) boulevards and all i find are these crappy little locutorios. fabulous for checking email on the fly, but no good for jumping on board the information super highway!

i have highlights from b.a., but first i must mention my revelation from uruguay...

many of you have enjoyed a sky bursting with stars that you never knew existed - while camping or traveling in remote lands with few people - but it took me a moment to figure out what was extra special about the billion stars that revealed themselves to me one night in punta del diablo. i´ve had the pleasure of seeing a pregnant night sky and appreciated all of those little bits of light that aren´t around the night skies of the city, but i had never, until last week, sat in awe of such a star harvest coupled with the soundtrack of crashing waves. the stars, all zillion of them, just tumble right into the ocean. and that, my friends, was cool. i´ve spent some pretty killer nights in my time star gazing on the beach, but there has always been some sort of a city relatively close by to keep some of the good stuff at bay. but not in uruguay. it´s so dark there and the skies so wide, that the stars of the milky way just pour directly into the ocean. amazing.

b.a....turn ons:

1. alfajores
chocolate-loving people of america, may i introduce you to the alfajor! a tasty delight that is the sweet of choice for the region. they are everywhere (instead of candy bars in the stores, they have these)... it´s basically a sweet sandwich made up of either two round chocolate cakes or two vanilla-ish cakes. then, in the middle, you find a layer of dulce de leche (also to appear on the turn-ons list). then you coat the whole shebang in chcolate, wrap it up and put it in whitney´s hand. even oreo and chips ahoy are in on the game...but yet they keep it from us. so unfair. i tried the oreo one. smashing. pretty much a big oreo (these things are a little smaller than a ding dong) coated in chocolate. not your classic alfajor, but i have to taste em all for my research. i´m not going to say they´re on the list of all-time favorite sweets, but fun to discover something i had never seen before.

2. dulce de leche
while i´m on the topic, might as well get this one over with. i´m not as nutzo over this stuff (on every table at breakfast and would be approached the same as nutella) as the entire country seems to be, but it is quite a treat on a sliced apple (they thought i was crazy for doing this. apparently they only put it on bread here. leave it to me to bring a revolution to the people.) and, i do love it swirled in some of their famous gelato.

3. straws
when you buy a bottle of anything...water or soda... from the mini marts they give you a straw. it´s a strange little behavior, but one i´ve come to appreciate. i think it´s because they´re used to sipping the maté from their metal straws. (still don´t get what´s so great about the maté that you´d be willing to haul around a thermos, a little ceramic pot, a metal straw and a tupperware of maté leaves everywhere you go.) but water and soda always through a bendy straw is tremendous fun!


b.a....turn offs:

1. dog shit
well, all the feral dogs of cusco are gone, but they´ve been replaced with more dog shit than i´ve ever seen in a city.
people actually own dogs here apparently.
and walk them all around the city.
and leave their shit, like little potent, slippery mines every five inches.
it´s unbelievable. for as fabulously european and sophisticated as porteños insist they are, someone needs to tell them that one of the steps to class would be not having a city (and shoes) covered in dog crap.

2. wet drops from above
picture yourself walking happily along the sidewalk - intensely focused on weaving your way safely through the poop bombs - and you feel a few wet drops of something land on your head and shoulder. once the surprise passes, you keep your pace steady and your head high, sincerely hoping that there´s not a huge smattering of bird dropping all over your head. luckily, the culprit usually is not poop from above. it´s currently 96 degrees here and all of the apartments have their air conditioners going, so you can´t walk a block without getting dripped on. i know about the a.c., i´ve been dripped on, but it still doesn´t alleviate that tense moment of prayer as you casually brush your hand through your hair and sneak a glance at your palm. the stress of simply making it safely down a block justifies the quick trip into one of their gelato places!

3. shhhh with the ¨sh¨
oh argentinians, why must you deny the existance of my friend "y" and its spanish cousin "ll"?? why must you deny their turn on the tongue? i say the "s" and "h" have plenty of time in the sun and need not be given even more power and popularity. i hold strong. i walk along a "calle" not a "cashe". i lost my first three layers of skin on the "playa" not the "plasha". i´d like a "botella" de agua, no "botesha".
and me "llamo", dammit, es whitney.... wheet-nee. si. como, whitney houston. si.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

draggin´

well, i officially forgot what day it was and had big plans for tonight to upload all of my photos since leaving cusco, but it´s sunday in montevideo! and nothing is open on a sunday in montevideo!

so, the wait will continue until i find an adequate internet cafe once i´m settled in my little recoleta apartment in b.a.

today, i´m not gonna lie, feeling a little sluggish. sad to leave my little beach paradise, but a little tired of trying to get my head around this dialect of spanish.
and just a little tuckered all together. i would like a little magic time/space machine that could take me home to my friends and my home for just one little night. a secret night of familiarity. and then i´d be refreshed and ready to hit the pavement tomorrow!

i´m going to guess, though, that a magic night not in a hostel will pretty much do the same thing (especially when i get tv with hopefully some movies with the english dialogue still intact and spanish subtitles...that´s been my favorite way of learning random new words...speaking of tv.., happy super bowl sunday to you all! i will have no idea what happens for a good 24 hours.)

until i ride the wild wave the interweb again...